PARADISE on EARTH

Kashmir is known for its unearthly beauty, which has earned it the sobriquet of being the " Paradise on Earth". Kashmir Valley is part of the state of Jammu and Kashmir in north India. The decade old political and civil turmoil in the region has not taken anything away from the beauty of Kashmir. With peace returning to the Kashmir Valley, it has now become a tourist hot spot owing to its amazing cultural diversity, the sheer beauty of the mighty Himalayas, and the green valleys whose beauty has attracted a horde of migrants from West Asia and Central Asia down the ages.

POPULATION

According to the 1981 census reports, Kashmir has a population of 77,18,700. Almost 50% of the population is engaged in agriculture. The Kashmir Valley is dominated by Muslims, while the Jammu region has an equal distribution of Hindus and Muslims. The Ladakh Valley has a Buddhist population, with a sizeable Muslim minority.

CLIMATE

The state of Jammu and Kashmir has three climate zones: the Arctic zone of Ladakh, the temperate climate of the Kashmir Valley and the sub tropical region of Jammu. Altitude ranges from 1000 to 28,250 feet, causing sharp climatic differences in the state. The fierce beauty of the Ladakh Valley is a draw for tourists, despite the inhospitable terrain and cold desert like conditions. The Kashmir Valley, with its clear lakes, pine forests and heavy snowfall in winters, counts many tourist footfalls in summers.

HISTORY

The state of Jammu and Kashmir became part of independent India on August 15, 1947, when the Maharaja of Kashmir, Hari Singh, decide to accede to India. The newly formed nation of Pakistan, however, sent in its army to capture the state. The Pakistani army illegally occupied almost 1/3 rd of the state. When the then Prime Minister of India, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, took the matter to the United Nations, it issued an order for plebiscite in the region, provided Pakistan withdrew it army from the region. Since Pakistan did not withdraw the army, the plebiscite was never held, leading to strife and wars between the two neighboring countries over the decades. However, with peace and normalcy returning to the Valley, the state has been opened up for tourism.

GEOGRAPHY

Kashmir is the northern most state of India. It lies between 32.17 degree and 36.58 degree North latitudes. Of the total 22,22,000 square kilometer area of the state, 78,000 square kilometers is illegally occupied by Pakistan and 42,000 square kilometers by China. The state consists of the dry mountain belts of mountain plains, the high Pir Panjal range, the lower Shivalik range and the Indus river valley.

MY JOURNEY

This is my second visit to the valley.But my 1st one was way back when I was only 4.So I hardly remember anything about that trip, but this time I brought lifelong memories with me. We were three families going together this time. This trip was planned last year and atlast it was implemented.

DAY 1: 27th February,2010

SEALDAH -> NEW DELHI (1454 Km)

Train: 2313 SEALDAH RAJDHANI Exp.

Duration: (16.50 - 10.20) 15.30 hrs.

Boarded Sealdah Rajdhani from Sealdah railway station.

DAY 2: 28th February,2010
THE BEGINING

NEW DELHI -> JAMMU TAWI(577 kM)

Train: 2445 UTTAR SAMPARK KRANTI Exp.

Duration: (20.50 - 06.35) 9.45 hrs

Reached New Delhi at around 11 Am.Took rooms in a hotel and took some rest.In the evening boarded Uttar Sampark Kranti Exp from New Delhi railway station.

DAY 3: 1st March, 2010
JAI MATA DI

JAMMU -> KATRA(50 Km)

Duration: 2 hrs by car

Reached Jammu Tawi at around 7 in the morning.But unfortunately it was raining quite heavily.So we all thought that it wasn't a good start to the trip.But the rain stopped after 30 mins.So we quickly arranged two sumos to reach Katra.After reaching Katra we took a hotel and quickly got ready for the Vaishno Devi darshan.We started our journey around 4 Pm and reached the temple at around 10.30 Pm. The queue wasn't that big enough but it took almost 2 hrs to complete the darshan.We reached hotel at 4 in the morning. Tried to have some good sleep but we all had to wake up early because our bus which will be with us for the whole trip will be waiting for us at 9 Am.

DAY 4: 2nd March, 2010

KATRA -> SRINAGAR(240 Km)

Duration: 10-12 hrs by car

We left Katra at around 10.30 in the morning.We hired a Tempo Traveler for the next 1 week.It took about 12 hrs to reach Srinagar.On the way we went through JAWAHAR TUNNEL which was an amazing experience for me.It took 4-5 mins to cross the tunnel.As we crossed the tunnel we were in Kashmir.We reached Srinagar at 10 Pm.We booked a beautiful HouseBoat named NEW MONALISA for our stay in Srinagar. Staying in a houseboat was awesome.It was very well decorated and the stuffs were very polite and extremely helpful.That day I had a very good night sleep and it was also needed as I didn't had a chance to sleep last night and spending all that time in the car.

Sunset on DALLAKE

DAY 5: 3rd March, 2010

SRINAGAR (local sight seeing)

MUGHAL GARDEN, SHAHLIMAR BAGH, CHASHME SHAHI

I woke up early and went to the balcony of the houseboat, but all I can see were clouds all around the sky.I dressed up and we all went outside to have the breakfast.After having breakfast we went to Mughal Garden.It was in a bad shape that time as it wasn't the season for flowers.So there there were nothing left to see.Still we went to two other gardens like, Shahlimar Bagh and Chashme Shahi. They all looked the same but Chashme Shahi was in a better shape that time.After seeing those places we had a delicious lunch and took two shikaras as arranged by our houseboat owner.The shikara ride was very good. We went to see the local floating market called as the Shikara Market.I never seen such kind of a market before.Suddenly it started raining so we had to go back to our boats and in the process we all washed up completely. Fortunately I carried a raincoat upper with me and that saved my day that day.Srinagar was very chilly and after the showers it was freezing.Thankfully we had BUKHARA in our room.By the way Bukhara is a loacal heating mechanism which is basically a fireplace where they use a drum to light up the fire inside that and there was an outlet for the smoke to get outside the room.So after the dinner I spent some time chatting with two of the houseboat men.They are very friendly.One is Javed he is a wrestler and a very child hearted person.The other one is Yasin, he is a teacher.He teaches Islam in a local school and he has a very interesting life so far.I loved chatting with them.After all activities its the time for me to say goodnight.

A typical SHIKARA

DAY 6: 4rth March, 2010

SRINAGAR -> SONAMARG -> SRINAGAR(84 Km + 84 Km)

Duration: 2.5 hrs by car

The morning wasn't that bright as I would have liked it to be but Yasin promised me that I will have a clear sky later in the day.So I had no option but to believe him and left Srinagar for our journey to Sonamarg.Our driver Ramzan told us that we wont be able to reach Sonamarg as the road will be closed due to heavy snowfall.So we were stopped 10 Km before Sonamarg.But that place was also amazing.There was a river flowing and all I can see was that white colour painted all around me.I could see the road ahead was blocked and it was more that 10 feet snow.We all played with snow for a while.My two cousins were enjoying.Specially the younger one who is only 2.5 years old was very surprised and thrilled to see so much of snow all around him.We all had a great time there.Though we were not able to reach Sonamarg but we all didn't seemed to have any regrets for that.

Just before SONAMARG

On our way back to SRINAGAR

DAY 7:5th March, 2010

SRINAGAR -> GULMARG -> SRINAGAR(60 Km + 60 Km)

Duration: 2 hrs by car

The morning was brighter comparing it with the last three days.Today our destination was Gulmarg. Initially we planned to stay there for 2 nights but we dropped that idea as it will be very cold out there and we have two little kids to look for.So we decided to go there and come back in the same day.It took 2 hrs to reach there. Gulmarg was really the Kashmir we know.There was 10-15 feet snow everywhere.The first floor of the hotels were under snow.We also witnessed bit of a snowfall there.The temperature was -4 degree that time.Locals said that it drops to -10 at night.So we felt that we made a right decision by dropping the idea of spending nights there.We spent 4-5 hrs there.I tried a bit of skiing. But you need to be very strong to be able to do that for hours.I got tired after 30 mins or so.But it was amazing.I fell once and it was also fun.Next time I will be more prepared for that and I will enjoy more.

Gulmarg was the highlight of this trip and the most enjoyable day of trip for me.

I did tried that

DAY 8: 6th March. 2010

REST DAY @ SRINAGAR

As we dropped our plans to stay in Gulmarg we had an extra day in our hand and we used that as a rest day in Srinagar.I could see clear sky in the morning and that made my day.We all had a wonderful lunch at MUGHAL DARBAR. We tried some Kashmiri dishes they were all awesome and very much different from Kolkata.After lunch we went to the famous Lalchowk.We all did some shopping.Then we walked around the Dallake in the evening but it started raining again.So sadly we had to went back to our boat.And thats all from Srinagar, because we will be leaving Srinagar tomorrow.I had a wonderful time there and I would love to come again.The most interesting thing in this trip so far was there unique style of clothing which is called PHERON and a small basket that they use to stay warm which is called KANGRI.My jiju liked it so much that he baught a pheron for himself.There were total 5 pherons baught.Kangri is a busket that is used as a tool to stay warm by the Kashmiri people.They use hot coal in that basket and put that Kangri inside there pheron and that keeps there body warm.I also tasted the kashmiri tea called KAWA.It is basically a black tea with keser, badams on it. SO far this place is really a paradise to stay.

A SHIKARA taxi stand

DAY 9: 7th March, 2010

SRINAGAR -> PAHALGAM(96 Km)

Duration: 3-4 hrs by car

The time has come to say good bye to DALLAKE and SRINAGAR.Staying in a houseboat will be something special and something that I will remember all my life.Dallake was amazing and it was huge.I would have loved to explore it but we had showers in both ocasions.Anyways it is good that something is still there left to be seen.We started our journey for Pahalgam.The road to Pahalgam was the most beautiful.There were Cricket Bat manufacturing workshops on both sides of the road.My two cousin purchased two bats from one of the shops.I also found a 10 feet long bat at the shop.It wasn't for sell though.We had lunch in a dhaba and we reached Pahalgam at around 2 in the afternoon.We booked three rooms in a hotel named HOTEL GLACIER.I took a bath and went outside to explore the place.There were large numbers of CRPF jawans posted there.I took some snaps in the evening.We had a very good dinner at our hotel.At night the temperature dropped to -1.But thanks to our room heater we didn't felt anything.

LEDER VALLEY, PAHALGAM

DAY 10: 8th March, 2010

PAHALGAM -> BETAB VALLEY -> ARU -> PAHALGAM(5 Km ->18 Km)

Duration: 30 mins + 40 mins by car

We booked a Chevrolet Tavera and went to see the famous Betab Valley.This valley was named after the movie which was film there.The whole valley was covered with snow.We all spent some time there and I took some snaps there.Then we went to ARU.ARU was another beautiful valley all covered in snow.From Aru we took ponies and went up to the mountains. The snow was melting and it created a small stream across the valley.Aru was like a dream.I wished to stay there for a couple of days.I was invited by my ponnywala to stay in his house.May be some other time.

The village of ARU

DAY 11: 9th March, 2010

PEHALGAM -> PATNITOP -> JAMMU

JAMMU -> NEW DELHI

Train: 1078 JHELUM Exp.

Duration: (21:45 - 09:45) 9 hrs.

We planed to stay a night at Patni top, but the locals and our driver told was there Panti top will be very similar to the gardens in srinagar. So there is no point of staying there.So we decided to go to Jammu and spent some time at Patni top.Our train was from Udampur which is on the way to Jammu.So we decided to inform the station master that we will be boarding from Jammu instead of Udampur. But we found out that there is availability of seats in Jhelam Exp. that day.SO we cancelled our ticket and booked for those seats and by doing so it saves a day which we were going to spent in Jammu.So we boarded the train that night from Jammu.

Playing Hide N Seek with the sun

DAY 12: 10th March, 2010

REST DAY @ NEW DELHI

We reached New Delhi at around 11 in the morning.After having lunch we went for shopping as delhi was the favourite shopping place for all of us.I had a great dinner at KAKE DA DHABA.I just love there foods.

PAHALGAM

DAY 13: 11th March, 2010

VISITING RELATIVES

This is the day for visiting our relatives staying in and around delhi.First we went to Bahadurgarh which is in Hariyana.We had lunch there.There was a sweet little girl.My two cousins played with her.Laltu da who is also travelling with us with his wife invited us at his place for dinner that night.So we had a nice dinner there.

DAY 14: 12th March, 2010

NEW DELHI -> SEALDAH(1454 Km.)

Train: 2314 SEALDAH RAJDHANI Exp.

Duration: (16.35 - 10.15) 15.40 hrs

Boarded Sealdah Rajdhani from New Delhi railway station.